A Brief Primer on the Jewels of Alsace: Part Two

Last week we began our journey through Alsace wines by taking a look at their unique style and the important varieties that make Alsace wines stand out from the crowd. With just a few terms left to master, you can easily and confidently find the Alsace wine that is perfect for any occasion.

With the varietal printed on the label of most Alsace wines, it’s easy to know what to expect. But there are a few terms that will make it even easier to zero in on that special bottle. Some terms are used to indicate wines that are perfect for aperitifs and lighter fare as they are produced in a style that highlights the fresh, cool character of the region.

• Alsace Edelzwicker for example, is a lovely and refreshing style of wine that makes a wonderful and refreshing summer quaffer. Edelzwicker can be produced from any combination of grape varieties, as long as Chardonnay (which is only grown in Alsace for use in Crémant d’Alsace) is not included. Alsace Gentil is a step up in quality from Edelzwicker, indicating a wine that is made from at least 50% Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, and/or Muscat: Alsace’s great grapes.
  
  
• Vendanges Tardives, literally late harvest, is used to indicate a wine produced from grapes that have benefitted from remaining on the vine for an extended period of time. Often this refers to sweet, dessert style wines, but in Alsace many of the Vendanges Tardives carry just a hint of residual sugar. These bottlings frequently represent the finest wines in a domain’s portfolio with the balance and structure to make them work at the dinner table. These are deep, intense wines, strong and packed with layers of flavor that can stand up to the richest foods.
  
  
• Sélection de Grains Nobles, on the other hand, does refer to dessert wines. Literally a selection of Noble grapes, or those affected with botrytis (aka noble rot), these are wines that express their innate character in a luscious, unctuous, perfumed style that has few equals.
  
  

As you can see, only a few wines in the Alsace repertoire are made in a sweet style. The classic style in Alsace is one that emphasizes the pure, rich character of the fruit and allows the nuanced notes of soil and spice to shine through, with no need for any additional sweetness. These are wines that are rich, yet refreshing – equally suited to the traditional dishes of Alsace and French cuisine, as well as the new classics of the modern table.

It is not surprising that Alsace wine is a natural match for the cuisine of the region. What may be surprising though, is that the great variety of wine styles produced in Alsace makes finding the right wine for almost any dish easy.

One of the most well known recommendations must be pairing Gewurztraminer with spicier dishes such as Indian and Thai food. The richness of Gewurztraminer pairs perfectly with the layers of flavor inherent in these cuisines, and its powerful tropical fruit and floral flavors and aromas easily handle the spiciness that makes these cuisines unique.

Alsace Riesling, on the other hand, is a perfect foil for rich dishes. With its wonderfully bright fruit it is a natural match for citrus flavored sauces finished with butter. Veal scaloppini is a perfect example, but Riesling’s food friendly character doesn’t stop there. Your favorite lemon chicken or tropical dishes prepared with fruit salsas will meet their match when paired with Alsace Riesling.

Alsace Pinot Gris can be such a rich expression of the grape that it matches up well with a surprising array of dishes. Its smoky character makes it perfect for some classic American dishes such as Barbeque, in particular Memphis style dry rub, as well as Jerk chicken or pork. One of my favorite matches for Alsace Pinot Gris though has got to be grilled seafood. The flavors of grilled white fish, lobster, or shrimp simply come alive when paired with Alsace Pinot Gris.

And then of course, there is Crémant d’Alsace, perfect as an aperitif, with almost all of our favorite canapés, and hors d’oeuvres, and wonderful with fresh cheeses. It’s a great way to start, and finish, almost any meal.

COOKING WITH WINE

Many dishes that one thinks of as classic French dishes are given a unique twist when made in Alsace.

Coq-au-Riesling for example is a wonderful version of coq-au-vin. In fact, Riesling can be used to enhance a variety of dishes that are simple to prepare, such as truite au bleu. Simply poach trout in Riesling and serve with a dash of vinegar for an authentic Alsace treat.

After learning so much about the wines of Alsace, you are ready to begin exploring these fascinating and compelling wines. Don’t be intimidated by the plethora of labels. Just dive right in with your favorite varietal wine. When making your selection look for the famous slender and green “Vin du Rhin” bottle. Since 1972 this has been the bottle used to convey the pride the region’s producers have in their wine. The Vin du Rhin bottle and Alsatian label are there to let you know that this is an authentic Vin d’Alsace, and worthy of your attention.

Gregory Dal Piaz has decades of experience with wine. He is currently the editor at Snooth where his wine articles and commentary are enjoyed by thousands of daily readers.

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