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A Brief Primer on the Jewels of Alsace: Part One

by Snooth editor Greg Dal Piaz

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The French wine region of Alsace has a complex history that sets its wines apart from other regions of France. While many other wine regions are closely bound to a single variety or blend, Alsace has a signature style – unoaked, dry, crisp, and complex - expressed across a diverse selection of the world’s finest white wine grapes. This style not only sets Alsace wines apart, but also makes them refreshingly different and perfect for almost any occasion.

Under the Alsace banner, one finds wines that range from the bright, crisp expression of Riesling unique to the area, to the perfumed, rich, and spicy Gewurztraminers that are a natural complement to exotically spiced cuisines. In between there are wines for every palate and every occasion, produced from classic varietals such as Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Sylvaner, and Muscat. A small amount of red and rosé wines are also produced, usually from Pinot Noir, though these wines rarely make their way to the US.

No matter which varietal one favors, Alsace wines are produced in a way that makes it easy to select the right one for any occasion. They tend toward the dry and crisp, featuring the pure, unadulterated flavors of the grape married to Alsace’s unique character of soil, sun and season that the French refer to as terroir. While many wines claim to exhibit terroir, few have such a clear and characteristic expression of their origin as do Alsace wines. Characteristic smoky and spicy soil tones add layers of complexity, and a distinctive signature to each variety.

One of the most intriguing characteristics of Alsace wines is that they are bottled under their varietal names, unlike virtually all other French wines. Instead of often confusing or obscure regional names that can make it difficult to know what you are buying, Alsace wines spell it out for you.

  • There is always an exception to every hard and fast set of rules, and in Alsace, it’s Pinot Blanc. While there is indeed a grape variety that goes by the name Pinot Blanc, in Alsace the name Pinot Blanc on the label refers to a family of wines that generally is based on Pinot Blanc, though may include other varieties, such as Auxerrois and Pinot noir. It’s best to think of Pinot Blanc as the Alsace wine best suited for an aperitif. Pinot Blanc tends to be bright and fruit forward, with hints of honeycomb, and spice notes that speak of the Alsatian terroir and make it easy to pair with a variety of dishes.

  • Rieslings are among the Alsace wines with the most competition on the world stage. These are wines of structure and detail when young, yet turn lacy and transparent with age, revealing the deep minerality and crisp fruit that exemplifies not only Riesling, but also the terroir of Alsace.

  • Pinot Gris can epitomize all that is great about Alsace wines. It has a richness that is rarely found in Pinot Gris, not to mention Pinot Grigio. The flavors of the grape are deep and rich with orchard fruits, married to the slightly smoky flavors that are Alsace. The wines are powerful, and can be structured in their youth, rewarding a few years of aging with an opulence few white wines can match.

  • Gewurztraminer is one of the wines most closely associated with Alsace. With intense notes of flowers and lychee intertwined with the spicy terroir-driven notes that are typical of the region’s greatest vineyards, Alsace Gewurztraminer has an aromatic complexity that few wines can match. Typically produced in a relatively dry style, to take advantage of its low acidity and rich mouthfeel, it’s a wine sure to garner attention.

  • Muscat is a decidedly floral wine, more so even than Gewurztraminer. With a palate impression similar to Gewurztraminer, but flavors that recall to orange and citrus fruits, these are distinct wines that must be experienced. While generally used to produce sweet wines in much of France, the Alsace versions tend to the drier end of the spectrum.

No look at Alsace would be complete without a mention of their great sparkling wine, Crémant d’Alsace, which, like Alsace Blanc, is one of the few Alsace wines based on a blend, though the more aromatic grapes are excluded from this blend. These are sparkling wines for any occasion, with a fruit forward appeal and friendly style that is perfect for turning any everyday occasion into something special.

While knowing what is in your favorite bottle of Alsace wine helps you choose the perfect wine for every evening, there is nothing like experiencing the wines for yourself. I hope this introduction to the region and Alsace wines has whetted your appetite for discovery and exploration. Join me next week as we delve deeper into the fascinating world of Alsace wines and learn more about the styles of wine produced and pairing them with the foods you enjoy.

Gregory Dal Piaz has decades of experience with wine. He is currently the editor at Snooth where his wine articles and commentary are enjoyed by thousands of daily readers.

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